Bavarians do it better

Munich round 2! Boy  am I glad I made the decision to come back and do some sightseeing.  This city rocks, I have a feeling I will be back.
Day 1
As I am checking into Wombats Munich, I am checking in at the same time as an American girl. We get told we are roomates. Boom, instant friend and man is she a legend.  Megan- fellow traveller from San Francisco, a summer camp director and all round awesome chick.
We went out that night to the famous Hofbrauhaus, pork knuckles for dinner and I was soft, I only drank a Radler (lemonade & beer).  We talked among some other Aussies we met who shared our table.  In these beer halls, if there are no small tables you generally share a large one with other people. Fyi Hoffbrauhaus is where the National Socialists started.
Day 2
Megan and I headed off to our free tour of the city (New Europe tours) it was a fantastic day! Our guide, Marcin was an ex history professor / musician now tour guide.  So we learned about the fascinating history of Munich, saw some gorgeous sights and had a lot of fun!  Marcin has a documentary in progress, about the genocide of Ww2 but how unfortunately genocide still exists today. After all we have been through, how do we still allow this to happen?  He rode his bike around Europe and Africa documenting his every move. Visit www.marcinonabike.com
That night after hearing from Marcin of an amazingly huge schnitzel, we headed off to find this restaurant and quench our schnitzel desires! So we get there and our waiter is ao lovely, we order the one schnitzel between two of us and a drink each.  Out comes this plate, the schnitzel is freaking huge, about 40cm long and sitting on a bed of fried potatoes. We got a salad too but sheesh who needs it. And I wonder why I am getting so fat haha!  Megan and I devoured  this thing! Oh lordy, I love Bavaria.
Day 3
Up early, Meg and I head to Dachau concentration camp. Infamous and gruesome.  We watched a documentary in the museum which gives a fantastic and in-your-face history on Dachau. 12 yrs of fucked up shit. Pardon my french, but what else can I say.... We were so emotionally drained we did not stay at the site long.  So off we went to feed our souls and get some lunch.  We walked around Marionplatz and decided on eating at the Augustiner Beer Haus.  We each ordered an Augustiner Edelstoff, after Marcin telling us it was his favourite beer. Well he was right, its bloody delicious!  We ordered Goulash soup each, it was the cheapest on the menu.  I wasn't too excited. Anyways it came out, first mouthful in I swear tears of joy came to my eyes. What was this hot pot of liquid gold we had just stumbled upon!?  The flavours were incredible, mouthgasms were had.
After lunch we walked up to the English gardens.  So massive we only scoured a small section of it. Very beautiful but I wasn't sure what was so english about it.  We watched people walk their dogs and we admired the crazy critters running around, into the freezing creek then rolling in the leaves.  Some part of the gardens there is a naked section, safe to say we didn't come across it.
After heading back to the dorm, having a nap Megan and I headed out to dinner.  We ate at a Bratwurst beer haus. And yeah we ate sausages. Oh my lord, how good they were! Of course washed down with Edelstoff.  We headed over to an Irish pub called Killians, its a cool place, just like at home with a live cover band. Killians is right next door to an Aussie pub, but its crap and only serves Fosters and Vb.  So we had a couple of drinks, sang along to the music then headed home for some sleep.
Day 4
At breakfast I met a Canadian girl named Rachel.  I told her we were visiting the Neuschwanstein Castle and she was welcome to join us, which she did.  Its a 2 hr train ride to Fussen, then you get a bus into the cute little fairy tale town, castles and horse drawn carriages but sadly no Princes. The castle is freakin huge, flamboyant (the king was controversially gay) and it was never completed inside. Only 16 rooms are done. It is a bit of a rip, €12 and only half an hour inside. Afterwards we walked to the bridge and took some gorgeous pics looking back at the castle.
After a big day the 3 of us went out for dinner and then back to Killians Irish pub.  Back for beer, music and good times.  We met 2 Canadian soldiers who were on leave with their father. Very lovely people, it was a big night, lots of laughs, good conversation and bad dancing.
Day 5
Megan checks out in the morning, nooooo! Off to her next destination. We had a very hungover goodbye, when I woke up later she had left me a thankyou card and a token of friendship/appreciation. So cute, God love her, I will miss her. Damn these goodbyes!
After coffee and a sandwhich, I spent some time on the internet, booking my next hostel, catching up on emails and applying for jobs back home.
Rachel and I went to dinner that night, we call the last supper. The only place deserving of such a name is of course Augustiner Brau Munchen.  Now this meal, turns out to be the tastiest most amazing in all of Germany. Rach had an incredible pork knuckle, I had roast pork. It was so delicious, I honestly said I could die happy right now! After dinner we raced back home and I walked Rachel to the train station and waved her off.  I had an early night, the next morning I am off to Salzburg Austria! I'm a little excited for you all to read my next story....

Beautiful Baden

It is so difficult, to meet people who welcome me, a mere stranger, with open arms, pure kindness and friendship to then just leave them. Not knowing if we ever meet again.

I arrived to Baden-Baden station after lunch Friday afternoon where Simon met me. I was a little nerve wracked knowing I would be spending time at a house where nobody spoke english. 

We pulled into the street and perched at the end is a gorgeous, very german two story house with litttle picket fence and typical high set pointy roof.

I received a warm welcome from Simons parents. Ingrid his mother and Bernd (Bernie) his father.  So lovely.

After our introductions we headed off to see Baden.  Right in the Black Forest, the trees are golden, orange, red and green.  Perfect autumn, leaves fall around and litter the streets like beautiful, natural confetti.  We drove up to Mummelsee, a lake up the mountain and walked around it.  We then went to a ride.  Then the tv tower, we climbed to the top and looked down on the city and forest.  After this we went to the Old Castle.  A castle built in 1100's that is now ruins.   On our way home that evening we stopped in to the shopping centre to pick up some schnitzel for dinner.  The shopping centre is like 2 large Ufo's! Very space agey.  The grocery store was massive and had the largest deli sections i've ever seen! Probably double the size of our supermarkets at home but the shelving is not so high, everything is in reach.  The delis run the whole length of the store, cheese, seafood, meat, wurst, chicken, bread - the selections are HUGE! 

So that night Ingrid prepared schnitzel with chips, pasta spirals, brown sauce and salad.  We sat and attempted conversations using the translation book that Bernie had. He had beem practicing! They are so cute, very precious.  He then brought out a globe and wanted to see where I lived and learn more about Australia.  We had icecream and sat in the loungeroom.  We sat by the 'oven' a large enclosed fireplace, it was a very lovely evening.

Next morning, I came out to see a lovely breakfast.  Rolls, cheeses, deli meats, coffee. Fresh rolls might I add. In Europe you never find mass produced commercialised bread products. Everything is bakery made, fresh and fancy.

We drove to the palace, Schloss Favorite and went on a guided tour inside. Admiring the 600yr old rooms still in tact with original wall coverings, ceiling art and flooring.  Adorned with porcelain in every room the dutchess who lived here loved to show off her wealth.  The kitchen still had the original copper pots and pans and one of the sitting rooms has the oldest glass chandelier in europe. There are some 3000 pieces of hand painted blue and white tiles that are tiled around the place. 

Afterwards we headed into the city, walked around, saw the famous Roman baths, Trinkhalle, Casino, and the Allee.  We then drove up to the cable train, which took us up the top of  mountain where we can overlool the entire region of Baden. So beautiful and colourful.

That evening we went to dinner at the Y Burg. An old castle, the front has been remodelled into a restaurant.  I ate a steak salad then a berry crepe for dessert.  Washed down with a glass of Sekt.  When you go to dinner with someone who you cant really converse with, it is often awkward.  Car rides are often quiet and when we do talk, it can get frustrating trying to explain and translate, that attempting conversation just becomes too hard.  A lot of what we talk about is small talk, it sux because the friendship will never grow. It is an odd situation to be in, especially for me, who is so verbal.  The novelty of interaction with a friend who is so foreign, wears off. It can feel disappointing as I have made a good friend but I cannot make the friendship stronger as we can't bond and share life stories and or compare our life experiences. 

Next morning as I am out of the shower, the breakfast spread is even more impressive.  More rolls, the meat and cheeses are laid out on a platter, with addition of smoked salmon and jams. I am feeling heavy in my chest knowing I am parting from such a lovely family who I appreciate so much. 

When I say goodbye to Ingrid and Bernie they both give me huge warm hugs, tell me (in german) I am welcome anytime.

I wave goodbye and soon enough I am boarding another train.

Lubeck

I checked into the Hotel Stadt in Lubeck, very nice place, great value, a beautiful breakfast was included both mornings.

A unesco listed city, Lubeck is gorgeous. Very small, old and cute! I walked the city which is very easy to navigate as it is so small.  I came across the worlds oldest, largest puppet and marionette museum. For only €5 I had to go in and I was glad I did!  It displayed puppets from all over the world, each continent and some 500 yrs old. 
Afterwards, I did a little shopping, had a haircut and went back to my room to pack. I was to leave early the next morning.  So just a short stay in Lubeck but still loved it!

Howl.

 “I don't think there is any truth. There are only points of view. ”  Allen Ginsberg


While in Sweden I watched a film starring James Franco called Howl.

Named after the poem Howl by Allen Ginsberg, the film has Franco playing the part of Ginsberg retelling the story of his life and times surrounding the  release of his controversial poetry.

As a young poet growing up in the 50's struggling with his sexuality.  He's confused until he realises he is homosexual after he falls in love with his friend Jack Kerouac. Back then if you were gay, you were crazy and quite often were thrown in the loony bin and given electroshock therapy to 'fix' your brain. 
The poem Howl, is a based on Ginsbergs experiences of growing up with a mentally ill mother, his idenity, his sexuality, his lovers, friendships and society.  Most noteably he writes of his friend Neal Cassidy who me met in hospital. A fellow homosexual.  While Ginsberg did not receive electroshock therapy, as he promised Doctors he was turning straight and would marry a woman (he was clearly lying) his friend did receive this treatment. Ginsberg watched Neal friend become a shell of a man, as slowly his brain was fried.


The movie follows the story of the poem (book) going to trial for Obscenity. The poem uses 'obscene' language which is questionable in society.  It is asked if some of the language needs to be replaced with less offensive terms before it can be returned to shelves.
 
I'm not writing this as a movie review. Just sharing a story of an artist whose words touched me.

 
“Concentrate on what you want to say to yourself and your friends. Follow your inner moonlight; don't hide the madness. You say what you want to say when you don't care who's listening.” 

 

Sweden round two.

Well here I am back on the train, onto the next stage of my journey. I
said goodbye to Amy then Adam drove me to Malmo Hyllie station where I was to transfer at Copenhagen then onto Lübeck. When I arrived to Copenhagen I found out the trains had been re-routed so now a 3hr journey is taking 6hrs. Oh well not to worry, the rides are very relaxing and I tend to fall asleep pretty easily.

While in Sweden this time around we had the Halloween party which was a lot of preparation with spooky decorations, pumpkin carving, cooking, costume organising etc.  Everyone who attended put great effort into their costumes, they looked great! I was a thrown together pirate,  Amy and Adam Aristocrats from the 1700's. We drank plenty of wine, of course.  As I had a cold, still from Switzerland, I lost my voice! Over the next few nights, I would continue to lose my voice, I think someone may have been telling me I need to shut up for a few days.

One Friday, Adam, Amy and I caught the train to Helsingor in Denmark to visit the Kronburg castle. A real castle built in 1420 with canons and a moat, coool!  It is a large castle, on the water. The interior though was lacking as the castle had been damaged from being used for military baracks, so their was no original wall coverings and few fittings. Most of the furniture, tapestries and artwork do remain though.  My favourite was the casements. An underground basement / cave... Casement - fitting name huh.  Anyway it was extremely dark and would be easy to get lost down there if you took a wrong turn into one of the little casement rooms. It was very cold in Denmark by the way  I said 'this is the most clothes I've ever worn!'

The following day was Isabels birthday, so for the morning we went to Isabels mothers house for the traditional Swedish birthday greeting where you all gather and wake the birthday boy or girl up, singing and with presents in arms.  We then had breakfast together, it was a lovely morning.  That evening we were to return for dinner, a dinner party with a few more guests. A very nice evening, much to my surprise. It was a warm and happy atmosphere, not a late night. We returned home for a glass of wine and a movie.

I had such a lovely time at Adam and Amy's.  I got a good feel for the place.  It was very relaxing, a home away from home.   I had a few tears as I sat on the train and waved goodbye to Adam.

Suisse. Swiss. Switzerland!

A train ride from Italy to Switzerland is so lovely, but when you actually cross that border to Switzerland, it's intense. Switzerland is so beautifully picturesque, it's like the perfect backdrop for a disney movie!

Day 1
I checked into The Happy Inn Lodge. Very cool with the Brasserie 17 bar/ restaurant downstairs and all the rooms above. That afternoon  walked around Interlaken West taking in the incredible scenery, looking in the shops (admiring cow bells, swiss army knives and cuckoo clocks)= watching paragliders with envy. Oooh I so wanted to go paragliding but it was just so overpriced!

That evening my mate Simon and I got ready and and walked around town in search of somewhere to have a good, reasonably priced meal and a few drinks. It was extremely quiet for a Saturday night, much to my surprise. As popular as Interlaken is for tourism, it is not a party town. We found a restaurant, not too much charm but we were lured in by the free salad with every meal. I had a cordon bleu schnitzel and chips but poor Simon. He ordered a pizza which took forever to arrive, and when it did it was a large, flat, cardboard slab with a minimal toppings. Worst pizza I have ever seen, ick! Lucky we had a couple of carafes of wine to wash it all down.

Day 2
Next morning, after breakfast we walked to the train station to make our way up the mountains. Interlaken West - East - Grund - Grindlewald - ooh woops here comes the ticket master and we have no tickets. Damn it! Luckily he saw we were just a pair of dumb tourists and we just bought our tickets at the next stop. Then we headed all the way over the other side to Lauterbrunnen. Here we get our first cable car! Then its a couple more trains and cable cars until we get to Murren. Murren is incredibly cute, a lovely town, up a mountain, gorgeous homes, cows and of course... goats! We walk through the town to which we get another cable car. up..up...up we go. Thinking we had arrived at the top of the mountain, I was surprised to see yet another cable car. So we are on the final leg, heading up to the top of Schilthorn Mountain (the famous Jungfrau Mountains neighbor). It's cool seeing yourself thousands and thousands of feet above ground, in a small box literally dangling from a cable that connects one mountain to the next!

We arrived to the summit at the top of Schilthorn Mountain. Snow decorates the mountain tops. Mountain peaks as far as the eye can see, land so vast. Standing on the deck, a large round platform, it's so quiet, peaceful and cold up there. Black birds flying and darting in and out, as the sun is starting to go very slowly go down, it's a remarkable moment in time. There is a panoramic revolving restaurant, named Piz Gloria, at the summit, which is where the James Bond movie On Her Majesty's Secret Service was set. We had a couple of sandwiches and a drink never taking our eyes off the large windows as the mountains go by.

We took the last cable car at 6.00pm back down to Murren where we made our way back down. Stopping in Lauterbrunnen at a pub for a warm glass of Gluhwein before eventually getting back to our hostel. That evening we made the right choice in eating at Brasserie 17, sharing tapas consisting of albondigas (meatballs), pepper balls (cheese stuffed jalapeños), mini bruschettas and a bowl of farmer fries. Of course my friend wine is never far away and we shared a carafe of tuscan red.

Day 3
Next day we took a train over to the East, walked along the river up to where it meets the sea. I've never seen water so blue. The river was aqua, so gorgeous it doesn't look real. After a relaxing walk and a sit by the sea we went back to the West for lunch. Having a sandwich each, neither of us were satisfied and decided we needed to try the famous Swiss specialty, Cheese Fondue. We told the waiter we wanted to share one between two of us but he insisted we have a fondue for 2.... so out comes the pot of melting cheese and bread basket. Oh boy we were excited! In we go with our bread squares, lathering them in cheese, rotating them in the liquid hot goo. So good! I had a glass of white wine with mine while Simon had a bottle of water. Now the water and wine costs exactly the same! When water costs as much as wine, you order wine, always!  He's crazy I dont understand people that dont drink! Ok so by now we are halfway through the fondue realizing that it was too much buuuut we kept on going. One bread cube after the next until I started to yawn. I was getting cheese lethargic, like the way babies do after a bottle of milk. Oh I was so dozy and starting to feel really ill. TOOO MUCH CHHEEEESE! I had had it, no more cheese!

That evening, cheese drunk I walked Simon to the station.   So I had a night to myself where I went to sleep early and prepared myself to leave the next morning.

Day 4
Next day I woke up fluey, I blame the cheese of course. I left at lunchtime and caught the train to Basel where I would spend one night.

Basel is a cool town, but unfortunately I did not get to spend any time exploring. Check in at the YMCA hostel was not until 3.30pm so I waited in the lobby for reception to open. While I was waiting there was a very large and rowdy group of men, I think they were Italians. All drunk, stupid and OLD. Ick they were middle aged men all carrying on in preparation for some sporting event. When I checked in I asked if there was any female dorms to which she replied no. I said I did not want to be placed in a room with any of those men, I was under the impression this was a youth hostel! So up I went to my room . I opened the door and was hit in the face with the smell of salami. Oh My God. Only one thing smells of salami, other than salami of course, and thats a dirty old Italian. There was no one in the room, I realized that some of the men downstairs were occupying this room. Beer cans, mens shoes, deodorant and other crap littered the room. I could have cried. I was sick, tired and did not want to stay in a room with drunk, old, European men. So I went downstairs, told reception I could not stay. They had no other beds left! So I used their computer, found another hostel and left.

Just a 10 minute walk away to Basel Backpack. It was perfect. Urban culture, young and I got a female dorm no hassles! Just one other girl in my room. So I ate a microwave lasagna for dinner and hit the hay by 9.30pm. I checked out at 8.30am took the bus to the airport and boarded a flight bound for Copenhagen where I then took the train to Sweden. So here I am again, back home with my family planning the next stage of my trip. I was supposed to fly home to Australia Nov 10 but its just not an option. I have ummed and ahhhed about what to do. I would ideally love to stay, work and travel but finding jobs without a visa is very difficult. So I am extending my trip, just until the beginning of December. Giving me the freedom to see and do what I want without rushing. The journey continues....

Florentine

I arrived to my hostel Florence Plus,  massively impressed, it's perfect. I would say even better than the Wombats hostel I stayed at in Vienna. This room was even bigger, I'd even say this place was like a hotel especially since it had a restaurant.
I went down to the tour desk first up to book in for the pub crawl that night.  Also booking in was an Aussie, a Korean Aussie medical inturn named Van. On first glance he looks like a sumo wrestler / gangsta.  Nice enough though we walked around the city, grabbed a beer and chatted before I went back to the dorm to chill out and get ready.

The Pub Crawlers all met down in the lobby at 8pm a small group of 11 people. Dinner was included upstairs on the terrace we got pasta, bruschetta, croquettes and bottomless wine. It was a great way for us to warm up and get to know eachother.  A really lovely bunch of people, mainly English speaking i.e. Aussies, Brits, Kiwis etc.
We all headed to the first bar, free sparkling wine and a shot on arrival.  I made a new friend, David. He and I were of similar age, he's a Canadian Scottsman and was like my little spiritual mate, bonding over universal law, alignment, stars, destiny, dreams, childhoods and travels. We were kind of like twins... espeically considering we share the same birthday... spooky!

At the 2nd bar Van, David and I thought more shots were a good idea so on came tequila slammers, limoncello, meanwhile I was already drinking a sex on the beach cocktail.

At the 3rd bar, it was a free shot with any drink. Oh dear, this is where things go blank. My bad.  To cut a long story short, I wasn't feeling too well so I had to bail.

The next day was a complete waste. I was a wreck! Thankfully noone else had checked into my room so I could suffer in silence.  I was really upset with myself for wasting a day, it was irresponsible and stupid, but there's no point in dwelling on it. After sleeping most of the day, that night all I knew all I could stomach was McDonalds, so off I went.  When I returned I did a load of washing and then watched MTV.

Next morning I went down to the restaurant for some breakfast and bumped into lovely Londoner Mel. She was on my pubcrawl. After breaky her and I went to find our other Aussie mates from the night Connor and Jess.  The four of us walked the city and made out way to Galleria dell Accademia where the most famous statue in the world lies... David.

There are many beautiful sculptures in this museum but when your eyes set upon David, isolated in his own corner of the building, with his own domed ceiling, with light beaming down on him, its beautiful.  He is huge, smooth, white, you just want to reach out and run your hands over his foot.  His hands and feet and massive, almost out of proportion.  He looks sad, almost like he is not proud of his deafeat of Golliath.  He stands there, in perfect form, sling slung over his shoulder gazing off to who knows where.






That night I enjoyed a delicious Spinach and Ricotta Canneloni with my friends and we parted ways about 10pm.  I was to go pack, and have an early night as the next morning I would get my train to Interlaken.

Florence is a gorgous, safe city.  It is not overrun with tourists, beggars or peddlers the way Rome is.  I wish I had more time here, but as always I must leave and make way to my next destination.
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